Film, Literature, & Fashion: Inspired by the Middle Ages
The marble halls were often filled with modest voyeurs, but on May 7th, 2018 its chambers were emptied out and sanctified in swaying incense—perfuming garbs of ecclesiastical grandeur. An arched window like that of an angel’s wing illuminated incandescent light upon the gilded armor woven into fabrics made of the finest silks, while hymnals echoed throughout the hallowed grounds. Brocade vests mimicked tapestries of macabre hunting parties, tucked between frocks of ivory gauze and glistening fourteenth-century chainmail. Better suited for a stone cathedral in the Middle Ages, the Metropolitan Museum of Art transcended into a venue of religious opulence for its annual gala. Prior to the this, some modern songwriters included segments of vocals and experimental instruments in their music that suggests feelings of lofty medieval choirs and lilting strums from a bard. Years later, several films premiered with similar archaic zeal, some of which were adapted from popular book publications in recent times. So why is it that there has been an uptick in infatuation with medieval history? Is it, perhaps, because of an obsession with the melancholy or mythical?
The word medieval generally evokes a sense of ancient oddities. If one were to truly analyze a painting from the era, or a stitch in some thick, dust-riddled pastoral needlepoint, it would become apparent that two elements stand out: romanticism and madness. What better recipe could there be for storytelling? This is how things become preserved—not through importance, but through intrigue. It is how some stories become classics while others fade into history. In an era of frenzied social media, where trends phase out quicker than most can join the latest unfashionable fad, period-centric aesthetics remain marketable. We have seen the rise in “y2k” and its predecessors, ‘90s grunge or the bohemian eccentricity that recalls designs of the late 60s, but the Middle Ages are making a comeback a mere few centuries later. It would be too easy to claim that this fascination has always been in popular culture because we have seldom seen such a wealth of fantasy and folklore inspiration in the past. Nowadays, it will be challenging to find stories that aren’t rich in folk tales, like that of studio house A24 and how most of their films reflect primordial narratives.
One such film was the recent Arthurian reimagining, The Green Knight directed by David Lowery. Starring Dev Patel, Alicia Vikander, and Joel Edgerton, the story recounts a Middle English poem about Sir Gawain, one of King Arthur’s knights. While this film received mixed reviews, the outcry of the displeased was mostly due to a misunderstanding of plot. We have become so accustomed to brutality and fast action in film that when a trailer promotes visuals of swords and prophecies, some are going to be disappointed if the movie does not provide the same fervor as acclaimed television and book series Game of Thrones. The film follows as such; upon accepting a foolish challenge, Gawain beheads a mysterious half-tree creature known as the Green Knight and falls into a worrisome bargain. Now he must seek the knight a year later so that his opponent can return the favor in chopping off Gawain’s head. Lacking the same mystical properties as the Green Knight, Gawain suffers through twelve months of mentally preparing to die. The ending, however, will leave audiences who have not been introduced to this eldritch tale, disgruntled. In an interview with Vogue, the film’s costume designer Malgosia Turzanska said she was drawn to “the multidimensional nature of the story—these ideas of the self, free will, faith, and fate (Turzanska, 2020).” This is no common gore galore, this is an emphasis on cautionary tales as being told through a heartwarmingly honest perspective. Although this is the first time we see a story of knights in a lighthearted fashion, other pseudo-medieval stories such as Game of Thrones still rank high on the charts.
As heard singing a haunting litany at the end of a particularly violent Game of Thrones episode, indie icon Florence Welch also exudes aesthetics from the Middle Ages. Better known as the lead singer of Florence and the Machine, her ethereal vocals can fluctuate between birdsong highs and devilish lows. While incorporating harps, drums, horns, and the occasional tambourine, Welch dances barefoot across the stage of each of her concerts while draped in sheer gowns of embroidered saintly iconography. Her mother is a Renaissance professor in England, thus her early exposure to medieval culture certainly spurred on a deep interest in the era. In an ironic jest of fate, even her appearance resembles a Pre-Raphaelite muse, with flowing auburn hair and a slanted bone structures. In a 2012 interview with BBC, National Gallery curator Andrew Graham-Dixon explores Renaissance paintings with Welch as she describes where she acquires her innovations. Just like her music, she states that some of the artworks are “very beautiful, but the more you look, the more disturbing it becomes.” Martyrs in particular are where she finds the artistry for most of her lyrics because “it’s about that transcendence—of leaving that pain in your body and letting the spirit go somewhere better (Welch, 2012).” She even named one of her songs from the Ceremonial album “leave my body.”
The themes in her music are generally to do with love, sex, and death because she claims that there is no updated version of any of the three. Our experience with death, for example, might vary in cause or precautions from the Middle Ages, but loss as a philosophical idea has not changed since then. We still have the same coping mechanisms and outlook on death as the textbooks will have us believe the peasantry of the medieval era did. This could be another reason for the resurgence in popularity due to our recent crisis with Covid-19 in relation to ailments such as the plague. It is the same notion that made Glen Whitman and James Dow write Economics of the Undead: Zombies, Vampires, and the Dismal Science. In fact, some of Welch’s songs reflect the same cadence found in fourteenth-century church music, of which resonated the concept of death as a transference of the soul into the afterlife. The same intonations are used within the indie folk band Fleet Foxes, whom also embellish their work as though derived from yellowing scriptures. One article from Times Leader titled Fleet Foxes Go Medieval suggest that “their lush harmonies have as much in common with Gregorian chorales as Simon & Garfunkel; the material sometimes sounds more suited for a castle court than a concert stage.” The bands debut album cover is the painting Netherlandish Proverbs by Dutch Renaissance painter Pieter Bruegel the Elder. An article from the Guardian called Why I Judge Albums by Their Covers notes that “The peasants are doing what peasants do – lighting candles for the Devil, bringing a basket of light into the day, filling the well after the calf has drowned. A woman in a red dress puts a blue cloak on her husband, signifying cuckoldry (Jones, 2009).” A nefarious note is struck, and suddenly this band links arms with Bruegel as if to say they are part of the scenery in the piece, painted between the well and the devil.
But Fleet Foxes is not the only one turning medieval paintings into modern gems. The annual Met gala announced in May 2018 that the collection theme would be Heavenly Bodies: Fashion and the Catholic Imagination. With showings ranging from the Anna Wintour Costume Center, the galleries at the Fifth Avenue location, and the Cloisters museum, this exhibit soon became the most visited display with over 7.3 million visitors in the fiscal year. In the announcement article from Vogue, Laird Borrelli-Persson comments that, “By placing fashion within the broader context of religious artistic production (like paintings and architecture), Costume Institute curator in charge Andrew Bolton, working alongside colleagues from the Met’s medieval department and the Cloisters, aims to show how material Christianity has helped form the Catholic imagination (Borelli-Persson, 2018).” Those same garbs of armor and incense infused gauze are held beneath the archives of the museum, preserved by their intrigue, and by their mystical origin.





Sources:
Archivist, T. L. (2021, April 3). Fleet Foxes Go Medieval. Times Leader. Retrieved February 16, 2022, from https://www.timesleader.com/archive/1197331/fleet-foxes-go-medieval
Borrelli-Persson, L. (2017, November 8). Met gala 2018 theme revealed: “Heavenly bodies: Fashion and the catholic imagination”. Vogue. Retrieved February 16, 2022, from https://www.vogue.com/article/met-gala-2018-theme-heavenly-bodies-fashion-and-the-catholic-imagination
Hess, L. (2021, August 5). The Green Knight’s Malgosia Turzanska on her radical vision for its medieval costumes. Vogue. Retrieved February 16, 2022, from https://www.vogue.com/article/the-green-knight-malgosia-turzanska-interview
Jones, J. (2009, February 25). Why I Judge Albums by Their Covers. The Guardian. Retrieved February 16, 2022, from https://www.theguardian.com/artanddesign/jonathanjonesblog/2009/feb/25/album-covers-art



